Paraguay
Paraguay is a country generally forgotten by tourists who come to South America. It is true that its larger and more touristy neighbors are very attractive, and yet Paraguay is worth a visit! Knowing nothing about this country, we wanted to take too visit it. So we took two weeks to appreciate and discover this country whose tourism is underdeveloped. It was very pleasant, a real return to culture, authenticity, nature and conducive to frank friendly encounters.
We share with you here what we really appreciated during our stay. For more information on the places we visited in this beautiful country, you can consult our itinerary. In addition, you will find in this article useful information to prepare your trip, such as our good addresses, our budget or even some tips and good plans.
Enough chatter, we are now showing you why we loved Paraguay and what there is to discover in this beautiful South American country:
1. The tranquility of Paraguay
After 5 months of madness in Brazil, we must admit that we found Paraguay very calm. It did us good to take the time to meet people rather than visit tourist sites. The majority of the population is concentrated in the southern part of the country, there are some big cities like Ascencion, Ciudad del Este or Encarnacion. Between these cities we find rural life with small villages and lots of nature. The northern part of the Rio Paraguay is called El Chaco, it is a huge, very wild and natural reserve and mainly populated by Guaranni communities who are the natives of Paraguay.
The places we visited were not of great tourist interest, which allowed us to savor simple pleasures, such as camping and enjoying the warmth of a fire, Boris's chess games with the locals, the smiles of strangers, moments spent with new friends, the joy of sharing and learning.
2. The history of Paraguay
In addition to Paraguayan history and culture, we had the opportunity to discover the Guaranni culture. The Guarannis are the natives of Paraguay who already lived in this part of the world long before any external invasion. Between colonization and dictatorship, this culture has been endangered many times. But the will to protect and transmit it was stronger than anything and that is why there are for example two official languages in Paraguay: Castilian and Guaranni. Language is the basis of any culture, so we thought it was great that Guaranni was officially recognized. It is a real chance that we had to have been able to discover and exchange with people who are so proud and protective of their culture. It's a real wealth for the country and we can't wait to come back to learn even more.
3. The Jesuit ruins
The Jesuit ruins are the trace of an era of evangelization of peoples that marked this region of the world. We had a lot of fun visiting this place steeped in history. There are several sites of Jesuit Ruins in the region of Encarnacion but to be able to visit them all it is better to have you own vehicle because in transport it is not possible. We therefore only visited the Trinidad site, which is one of the largest Jesuit ruin sites in this part of the globe. The ruins of Trinidad are well maintained and very pleasant to visit.
4. Tereré in Paraguay
As always during our travels, we take great pleasure in discovering the culinary specialties of the countries, no exception here in Paraguay. It's always a pleasure to discover new flavors, like biting into a hot Chipa during a long bus ride. We were also carried away by the smells of the many "Asados" (barbecue) that we find everywhere. Yes, meat is an integral part of Paraguayan cuisine, it is found at every meal! But what we preferred in Paraguay was the Tereré, this refreshing and energizing drink made from Yerba and other plants. But more than just a drink, the Tereré is above all an opportunity to share a moment with friends, to discuss and enjoy the present moment. A true tradition in Paraguay.
5. The Paraguayans
Throughout these two weeks we have met generous, curious and caring people. Our trip would not have been the same without these precious moments shared with these people. It is by their side that we were able to learn a lot of things, indeed who better than its inhabitants to tell us about the history and culture of Paraguay. Go camping on an island where we would never have gone without them, share a traditional meal, listen to Paraguayan reggae, learn how to properly prepare your Tereré… and so many other things that we could not have discovered without them. So to you who welcomed us so well in your beautiful country, THANK YOU.
To sum up, our two weeks in Paraguay were really full of discoveries, encounters and learning. Meetings and exchanges with people are for us the very essence of this journey. Speak a new language, discover another culture, learn from others to get to know each other better. And that's why these two weeks in Paraguay have been so wonderful!
Our only regret is not having our own vehicle to visit Paraguay, because some places are difficult to access by bus. If we return to Paraguay it will therefore be with our vehicle in order to have the freedom to be able to stop where we wish and be able to explore the northern part of the country: El Chaco.
For more information about our trip you can check our itinerary. We also put you below some good addresses, our budget or information on transport or Paraguayan gastronomy.
- By bus : Paraguay does not seem very big compared to its neighbours, there are some major roads but the roads are not always in very good condition. This is why the bus journeys that connect the cities are quite long. Travel time must therefore be planned. You can buy all your tickets directly in the stations, do not hesitate to compare the timetables and prices of the different agencies and then negotiate the prices of your tickets. We found that the transport wasn't so cheap compare to other things, you can find the information of duration and price of our journeys on our map.
- By car : Same as by bus, the state of the roads is not always at the top so be careful. On the other hand, it offers a lot more freedom. Indeed there are quite a few places where we did not go because by bus it was very complicated. Having your own vehicle allows you to be more free, to reach different places more easily and to be able to get off the beaten track.
During these two weeks of discoveries we were able to taste some specialties of Paraguayan cuisine. Meat predominates in many meals in Paraguay, it is a very important part in the cuisine of Paraguay. It is therefore the right place to enjoy a good Asado (barbecue). We were able to test some classics that we present to you here:
- Chipa (small bread)
- The sopa ( corn cake with cheese and onion )
- Paygua mascara (croquette)
- Mbejù (pancake of manioc and fresh cheese)
- Asado (barbecue)
- Choripan (bread and sausage/ hot dog)
- Lomito Arabe (kebab)
- Vori Vori (thick soup)
- Milanesa sandwich
- Natural sandwich
- Empanadas
- Caldo de Surivi (fish)
- Tereré/Yerba Mate
- Beer: Pilsen
Ciudad del Este is a big border town with Brazil. Lots of shops with Brazilians and Argentines who come to do good business in the many shopping centers. Be careful, you have to be very vigilant if you walk around town, a lot of pickpockets, aggression...
To do in the surroundings : Iguazu falls, Itaipu dam and Monday falls
Asuncion :Asuncion is the capital of Paraguay. It is a fairly large city on the banks of the Rio Paraguay, with a rather pleasant historic center. From Asuncion you can reach all the cities of Paraguay.
To do : visit the historic center, enjoy the craft markets and the central market, drink a Teréré in the main square, there are also some beautiful places to see around Lake Ypacarai (Areguá, San Bernadino, Caacupé)
Giuseppe Hostals&Suites : spacious room, clean and comfy, possibility to add the breakfast, access to the kitchen, : 30€ /double room,
Plaza de los Héroes : several food stalls and Tereré sellers
El Bar de la Preferida : buffet, barbecue, on site or to take away
Concepción :Concepción is a pleasant city on the banks of the Rio Paraguay with its colonial buildings resembling westerns and its very lively market. The town is super calm and we receive a very warm welcome from everyone we meet. The surroundings are also very beautiful, with the El Chaco reserve just a stone's throw away. If you want to visit the surroundings it is better to have your car.
To do : visit the city, drink a Tereré on the banks of the Rio Parguay, stroll through the central market, go to the island of Monterrey. There are also things to do in the area but for that you need a car.
Hostel de las aguas : very good hostel, several type of room with a balcony or not, breakfast included, acres to the kitchen and the laundry, chess night on Tuesday and Thursday, really nice welcome, : 20€ /double room,
Mansion Irigoyen Resto Bar : very good dishes, pleasant and welcoming service,
Bar El Pescador : good restaurant and bar, ideal for eating fish on Monday evening as it is the tradition in the city,
Encarnación :Encarnación is a border town with Argentina, in the south of Paraguay. The two countries are separated by the Rio Paraná. The city of Encarnación did not particularly charm us. You can visit the city center with its cathedral. There is a nice walk along the river that leads to the beach. But the main attraction of Encarnación are the various sites of Jesuit Ruins that are in the vicinity.
To do : visit the city, stroll along the Rio Paraná promenade, visit the Jesuit Ruins of Trinidad and other sites if possible
La Casa de Pedro : hostel in the center, basic room, not very clean, but access to the common kitchen, terrace and garden, : 25€ /double room,
Cocina Porcina : small outside food court with pizza, hot-dog, burgers, bars ...
Restaurant Asado : restaurant to eat a good « Asado » from Paraguay, almost at the corner of the street Carlos Antonio Lopez and the Avenue Bernardino Caballero : 90 000Gs Barbecue mix for two people,
During our 2 weeks in Paraguay we traveled only by bus, as usual we go to popular restaurants and street stalls or we cook our own meals. For accommodation we always take a double room or apartment, generally this comes to the price of a dormitory per person. We found accommodation and transportation to be quite expensive compared to the rest of the cost of living there. Here is the breakdown of our budget for these 2 weeks in Paraguay:
- Budget for the 2 weeks : 680,76 € = 340,38 €/ person
- Daily average : 22,69 € /day/person
- Some price ranges :
- Accommodation (double room): from 20 € to 40 € (or more, depends on your budget)
- Meal: from 2 € to 15 € (or more, depends on your budget)
We both took a prepaid card at the operator TIGO. It is a widespread operator in Paraguay and we had very good coverage all over the country.